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The scent of herbs and pines, the startling blue of the sea. Brilliant white cliffs tumbling into the depths. Pounding surf and chiming church bells. Mountain peaks that break the clouds. Here is the most detailed guide to the Italian Riviera, also known as Liguria. Liguria stretches from the French border to Tuscany. Backed by the Apennine Mountains, small villages dot the hillsides, perch on mountain peaks, and line the valleys. Seaside towns include Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure and San Remo. Genoa, the sophisticated metropolis, abounds with history and culture. We tell you what you must not miss: The olive oil, the black truffles, the wines and cheeses. Pesto sauce, made of fresh basil, garlic, olive oil, cheese and pinenuts. Pizza dell'Andrea, named for Andrea Doria, the 16th-century Neapolitan admiral. It was his favorite and is still popular. Shrimp, scallops, lobster, clams, mussels and squid are all on the menus. Hike the ancient trails between the villages. Prowl the medieval streets of Genoa. Explore the feudal castles and Roman ruins. Shop in the antique markets and artists's studios. Here is practical advice on when to go, where to go, transportation, currency, climate, history, business hours, medical care, banking, staying safe, plus all the hotels and restaurants worth your attention.

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